Steering

[Bokey]

I haven't used my boat much since Ike, only 3 times here lately. I've noticed the steering is alot stiffer than it was when I bought the boat last year. I greased the fittings at the steering guide tubes, but it didn't help. I looked at the steering gear box (inside the console) and noticed a small drop of oil on the outside of the housing. I also applied some marine lube to the steering linkages, still no help. Any advice will be much appreciated. :sos:

[Unclehandy]

I doubt it is the steering gear box, but the linkage at the transom. I had the same issue with my kenner a few years ago. It would get to the point where I had to break it loose by moving the engine side to side manually. The steering got turned too hard one time and broke off a tooth in the gearbox. Try to lube the heck out of the guide tubes, get as much to go inside as possible. The grease points alone are not enough! The friction eventually caused a slight bend and had to have the steering cable replaced. About $200, not as bad as I expected.

[007]

Is it hydraulic or no feed back steering?

[Bokey]

It is not hydraulic, at least I haven't seen any reservoir.
My neighbor said he's heard of using some sort of dry lubricant (like graphite) at the cable ends where they hook up to the steering box. The graphite is supposed to work its way down the inside of the cable housing, thus lubricating it. Have you heard of anyone doing this?

[Unclehandy]

Graphite is okay, but it only works on dry surfaces. Unless all the lube is off of the parts its will prob just make a mess. Since there is always gonna be saltwater splashing up there I would always use some sort of grease. Lithium grease works very well.

[007]

What you have is a safe T helm no feedback steering system. You'll have to disconnect the linkage from the motor and try to pull the steering rod out. Now see if the wheel will turn any easier with the cable out of the motor, if it does turn easier, you'll want to clean that tube out as good as you possibly can then take a grease gun and pump that sucker full of grease.If that doesn't do the trick you have to pull the whole cable. I'll let you try this 1st and if it doesn't work, I'll walk you thru the next step.

[Unclehandy]

Yep, that is exactly what was wrong with mine. Corrosion on the cable creating friction on the sheath.

[Bokey]

Thanks 007 and Unclehandy! I'll try what yall said this weekend. If that doesn't work I'll pick your brain some more. Thanks again!:)

[Unclehandy]

I think 007 knows more about fixing it, I just remember having the same problem! But Im glad to give any input I can!

[Bokey]

How do you keep the cables from getting corrosion on them? It would seem that since they are inside a sheath they would'nt get corroded in the first place. But I guess the saltwater has a way of getting in to unwanted places.

[007]

How do you keep the cables from getting corrosion on them? It would seem that since they are inside a sheath they would'nt get corroded in the first place. But I guess the saltwater has a way of getting in to unwanted places.

Welcome to saltwater fishing.

[007]

Welcome to saltwater fishing.

I took a 3/8" dowell rod with some torn pieces of shop rags and some acetone to clean that tube out.

[Bokey]

007, I have 2 steering guide tubes that hook up to my Johnson 150hp. They are in very clean and have no corrosion whatsoever on the outside. Are you saying the corrosion is on the inside of these guide tubes? When I take the linkage off at the motor and at the tube ends, do the tubes them come off exposing the cables inside?

[007]

007, I have 2 steering guide tubes that hook up to my Johnson 150hp. They are in very clean and have no corrosion whatsoever on the outside. Are you saying the corrosion is on the inside of these guide tubes? When I take the linkage off at the motor and at the tube ends, do the tubes them come off exposing the cables inside?

The rod that goes thru the motor is connected to the steering cable. The corrosion is on the inside of the tube that is on the motor itself. I had to beat my old one out. If you have to beat it out, have an angle grinder handy because you might mushroom the rod trying to get it out. It's ok to grind the edges of it to make sure it comes out of the motor. Just do it enough to clear the tube if necessary.

[Bokey]

Thanks 007, now I understand. I was confusing the rod as being the tube. The rod slides through the tube which is part of the motor. I'm at work right now and not looking at my motor, but I looked at it pretty good last weekend. I assume the rods comes with the cables as an assembly.

[007]

Thanks 007, now I understand. I was confusing the rod as being the tube. The rod slides through the tube which is part of the motor. I'm at work right now and not looking at my motor, but I looked at it pretty good last weekend. I assume the rods comes with the cables as an assembly.

I thought the same thing. It's all one piece.

[FlatoutFishin]

Thanks 007 and Unclehandy! I'll try what yall said this weekend. If that doesn't work I'll pick your brain some more. Thanks again!:)

Well, you might get lucky on one of them! :D

I'm fixing to change out my steering cable as well. When they rigged out my shallowsport they put about as many hard 90's as you can get and used an inferior product. Mickeys Marine was pushing the Tohatsu stearing cable saying you could virtually tie a knot in it with very little resistance...anybody had any experiance with that one?

[007]

Well, you might get lucky on one of them! :D

I'm fixing to change out my steering cable as well. When they rigged out my shallowsport they put about as many hard 90's as you can get and used an inferior product. Mickeys Marine was pushing the Tohatsu stearing cable saying you could virtually tie a knot in it with very little resistance...anybody had any experiance with that one?

You see how I have mine rigged. It had a 15' cable but, I got a really good deal on a 16'. It's got a bigger loop on the back but, turns 50% better that the old one did. Yours isn't rigged that much different than mine. I think that they're just trying to get you for the labor to install it. You can do it yourself in 45 minutes.

[FlatoutFishin]

You see how I have mine rigged. It had a 15' cable but, I got a really good deal on a 16'. It's got a bigger loop on the back but, turns 50% better that the old one did. Yours isn't rigged that much different than mine. I think that they're just trying to get you for the labor to install it. You can do it yourself in 45 minutes.

You can! :D

[007]

You can! :D

Is your helm still good? If so all we'll need is a cable. Can you look up your specs and find out how long the cable is before we pull it out?

[dbarham]

anyone got any steerin cables for sale?

[007]

anyone got any steerin cables for sale?

No!! Ebay does.

[dbarham]

:)
No!! Ebay does.
really! wonderin if anyone had one laying around! thanks

[007]

:)
really! wonderin if anyone had one laying around! thanks

Slow down just a little there D-Wayne.

[dbarham]

Slow down just a little there D-Wayne. youre the boss easy DUDE!

[007]

So, what's the latest news? Did you get it fixed?

[Bokey]

I didn't get a chance to work on it this past weekend. I couldn't stand looking at my back yard, so I started a re-landscaping project instead. Tell me I don't have my priorities mixed up. I was hoping to get the steering fixed before the channel marker project (that I haven't signed up for). But I think the steering will be ok for one more outing should I decide to use it.

[SpikeMike]

i'm working on my steering problem right now. the rod that goes through the motor is stuck. i can hammer on it to move it, but i don't want to get it stuck totally inside the tube where i can't get a hold on it.

might just have to go for it.

[WestEndAngler]

i'm working on my steering problem right now. the rod that goes through the motor is stuck. i can hammer on it to move it, but i don't want to get it stuck totally inside the tube where i can't get a hold on it.

might just have to go for it.

Are you replacing it? Can you just not remove it beat it out of there?

[007]

i'm working on my steering problem right now. the rod that goes through the motor is stuck. i can hammer on it to move it, but i don't want to get it stuck totally inside the tube where i can't get a hold on it.

might just have to go for it.

Shoot me a pm with your # and I can walk you thru it.......Mike

[SpikeMike]

fixed the steering finally. thanks for the info from 007. i got a rod and beat the shaft out of the tube at the front of the motor.

the shaft at the end of the cable looks great and the steering cable works fine.

but, the inside of the tube at the front of the motor was corroded. so, i honed it out using a dowel and sandpaper. this took several passes, but it worked. the steering works great now.

for now, i'm using white lithium grease on this now. does anyone have a better idea of what kind of grease to use?

[F.W.]

Bokey, there are all kinds of lube's, you need to understand the temperture viscosity " IT'S TEMP THAT IT SILITFY'S AT" if you use a grease that silitfy at 120 degrees, you can never turn your steering fast enough to make it melt for lubrication, you can clean your shaft, steering tube, and then put the same kind of grease back into the steering system and you will end up with a stuck chuck steering system again and again, use a cold lubrication grease, air/water temp will not hamper the grease if you use a grease that has a "low temp viscosity" or known as cold lube grease, never ever mix a cold lube with a off the shelve grease, it will lock-up and you will get to clean your mistake out all over again. It's not a cheap lube $19/28.00 dollars you won't have to clean the system out again for extended storage times and when the air temp drops you will have no problem steering, there is one draw back it holds up to fresh water 100% better than to salt water so grease the system every quater of operation two pumps with a grease gun should due. It should solve your problem completly if you get all the old stuff out when cleaning.